October 5th and 6th: Sightseeing In Erbil

Friday, October 5th:

This morning we walked to Costa Rica Coffee Shop. It was about a two-mile walk, but we were able to go through a huge park with trees, green grass and lots of foliage. The coffee shop, much to our relief, was the real deal (or "legit" as Lisa would say). 

Enjoying lattes and chocolate muffins.

Andy and John took the kids back to the house for their morning naps. The ladies got to hang out together, journaling, reading, and talking. We grabbed lunch from the nearby Papa John's and Burger Queen (Burger King and Dairy Queen combined) and took it home to the guys.

Close to 1:30 pm, the girls were off again! K took us to Langa, a GIANT secondhand market! We shopped until we dropped ... well, dropped off our bags at home and headed off to the Citadel.

Deep in the labyrinth of the market.

The Citadel is said to be "the oldest continuously inhabited town in the world." It is layers upon layers of cities. We couldn't go below, but saw some of the old ruins on the top level. They are "renovating" the structure, which means (unfortunately) that much of the historical architecture is being replaced.

The Citadel

Carvings on a post

View from the Citadel

The Citadel was an amazing place to visit. It would be neat to know what it was like to live there. K said she met an older man during one of their visits who said he had grown up there as a child. The street was divided - men would walk down one side and women on the other. That little glimpse sparked my curiosity and I couldn't help but wonder what each civilization was like, how each layer would represent the culture's priorities and "personality."

As we left the Citadel, we passed the main bazaar (which is a city in itself). K ordered a juice and we all ended up getting a fresh-squeezed fig juice for free! I love free! And the juice was excellent too! From there we took a taxi to Abu Shahab where we met John and Mary for dinner. I had an Iraqi "salad plate" and Sarah ordered pizza. We stopped at a nearby grocery store for ice cream, then walked home. Happy to just hang out. Unfortunately, the "Butter Pecan" ice cream that John picked out was actually butter-flavored ice cream with walnuts. Guess it is best to take things literally here! As we sat around on the couches, Sarah braided my hair. Sarah likes to try new styles ... and I love to have someone play with my hair! It was so relaxing and looked amazing...

 We ended up playing the "name game." It was our first time playing with Sarah ... I'm glad she didn't decide to leave our team after seeing how wild and crazy we can be!

Saturday, October 6th:

At 7:30 am, K came to the house so she, Sarah and I could walk to a mosque that we had driven by the other day. It was over 2 miles, but good exercise for the morning. We passed this fountain on the way there... I want a miniature one in my room!

Here is the mosque in the distance. Erbil is a very dusty city!

And finally, up close!

The building was enormous.

Intricate tile work that covered the mosque:

The garden next the mosque was beautiful.

We took a different route home, which kept the 2.5 mile walk interesting. Sarah and I regrouped with the team. Mary and John decided to hang out at home. Andy went to look at vehicles with a friend. (Andy and Lisa are thinking about buying a car!) The rest of us (Lisa, the kids, K, her daughter, Sarah and I) went to Family Mall. We loaded up in one taxi. Tight squeeze! Sarah and I split off to look for some things and get a bite to eat. We rendezvoused around 1, so we could get back to the house for a 1:30 pm departure. We were a little later than planned, but ended up waiting for the driver to arrive anyway. Loaded up everything and everyone in an H1 and made it back to Duhok around 5 pm.

I unpacked, took a shower, did a load of laundry, uploaded pics, and even squeezed in a little school work! :) Sarah and I watched a movie with popcorn, then off to bed...

March 18th and 19th (Days 70-71): We're Moving Up in the World... Duhok Now Has Celery!

March 18th:
Slept in until 9am. Didn't feel as sore when I woke up, which was an answer to prayer. Stacy and I went to the Cultural Center so she could register for another Kurdish class. Snow was still on the mountains, but the sun was shining, so it was a nice day to be outside. We walked down past the market to a parking lot that acts as a bus stop. We had to wait until our bus filled up, then we were off! Two Kurdish women behind us were empathizing over the difficulties of going to the village for Nawroz when it wasn't appealing to their children - they spoke in Kurdish, but Stacy translated the gist of their conversation. It was fun to "eavesdrop" on the lives of everyday women here. We drove for about 15 minutes to the other side of the city. The bus let us off at the bottom of a hill and we walked to the Cultural Center on the top. From there, we had an amazing view of Duhok. The houses are brightly colored - pinks, greens, blues, and reds. It was a crystal clear day, the air was fresh from the snow, and everything about the city was vibrant. After she registered for the class, we walked back down the hill and caught a taxi to Mazi. Stacy went home while I picked up a few groceries.

When I got back home, I did some laundry, vacuumed, and prepped two graham cracker crusts for tomorrow night's team dinner. The sun was energizing and I felt like cooking. I walked down to the stand on the corner and bought some vegetables, then came home and tried out a new yellow curry recipe to eat sometime this week. At 4, I skyped with my family and Mom took "me" into each room so I could wake up the boys. :) Eithen did a puzzle with me and Mom updated me on life back home.

For dinner, Mary invited me over for black bean, pumpkin chili. It was yummy! Dan and Julie came over too and we had a fun time joking around. (Dan likes to give me a hard time and I dish it right back). Mary also made pumpkin spice muffins, which we enjoyed for dessert.

I didn't realize how much I had packed into one day until I sat down... felt really tired and happy to go to bed.

March 19th:
Spent some time reading God's Word and praying when I woke up this morning - much needed as I have felt dry and listless in spiritual things. A dream that I had last night was bothering me, but as I thought on it and prayed over it, I became convicted that it was an attack from the enemy to discomfit and distract me. God helped me overcome and I found joy as the day went by.

Julie and I went to the market around 1 so she could buy some sports clothes for the soccer clinic. Afterwards, we got a juice then stopped at the vegetable den (where they now have celery!) By the time we finished, the smoke, bright sunlight and over-stimulation worsened my dull headache (that has been lingering for over a week) to a semi-migraine. When I got home, I took some pain reliever, which helped, then had to get right to work, making dessert for tonight's team dinner.

Stacy's English lesson was cancelled, so we talked in the kitchen for a little while as the pies were finishing up. Around 5:30, we met up with John and Mary and walked to our team meeting together (stopping for vanilla ice cream on the way). Lisa made shredded barbecue chicken sandwiches with apple slaw! Julie and Mary whipped up the sides - potato salad (with celery) and yummy pesto pasta salad.  I made an apple pie with graham cracker crust for dessert, which we enjoyed after our Skype call with Dave. Julie had picked up our Kurdish dresses from the dressmaker, so we oohed and awed over them. (We had them fitted right before we left for Suly.) When we got home, Mary and I had a little "party" and put the elastic in the dress and pants, then modeled them for pictures (coming soon).

January 27th and 28th (Days 20-21): A Servant's Heart?

January 27th:
Thankful to sleep in a warm room again. The electrician still hasn't come, so Stacy and I try to come up with things to do outside the house. In the morning, I listened to Pastor's sermon from the 15th and then listened to part 2 of the shame lecture again. Learned new things the third time around and it helped answer some of the questions I've had recently. While making an effort to consciously identify the idol that is exposed each time I experience shame, I've noticed that I can still be offended by others' actions, particular fellow believers. I've been wondering if this is an indicator of an idol or if there is another root issue. While listening to the shame lecture, I came to several conclusions. First of all, as God must reveal Christ in me to others, I should be praying that He will help me see Christ in His people. God is not well-pleased with His people because they do what He expects or refrain from offensive behaviors, but because He sees them clothed in His Son's righteousness. I should also look at fellow believers from this perspective. Instead of seeing what offends me in others, I should see them as well-beloved of the Father. It helps to remember that Christ had no form or comeliness so that we should desire Him. Secondly (and this part came directly from the lecture), I am usually offended by other believers because they do not meet my need for acceptance. They don't respond to me in the way I expect or love me for the things that I do or encourage me when I feel that I need it. I need to look for these things from my Heavenly Father and not from others. When I feel offended, I am really experiencing another type of shame and it should point me to God. Unfortunately, my usual reaction when someone hasn't met my need for acceptance is to look to other things to cover my shame - I look to see who does appreciate me or I look at the offensive person's flaws so that I won't want their acceptance anymore. Instead of seeking my own covering, I must identify my need (acceptance, encouragement, love) and seek it from God. Thankful to be learning so much and praying that God will apply the lessons to my heart.

In the afternoon, Stacy came home and we ate snacks and talked in the kitchen for about an hour. I enjoy our conversations as we discuss things in a spiritual context and it helps us get to know one another better. It was cold throughout the house, so neither of us felt very motivated to do anything. Around 4pm we decided to go by the market to pick up a few things and then out to dinner. I picked up a map of the country to hang on my wall (I am trying to make my room a little cozier and more personal... in a practical way, of course). And Stacy picked up more ear buds and speakers. Her head phones usually last only two to three weeks, but we figure that is what happens when you only pay $2.50 for them. :)

It was raining a little, but nothing compared to Oregon. We walked to a pizza place for dinner. I had heard that they put unusual things on their pizza, but this was really good. We got half cheese and half "miscellaneous" (that is actually what it was called on the menu). It had chicken, beef, green peppers, and onions. The meal was served with soup and salad beforehand and we ordered some "finger sheeps" (french fries) to go with our pizza.

As we were leaving the restaurant, an Arab woman called to Stacy and began asking her questions in Arabic. She was looking at me intermittently and once even glared at me to see if she could believe what Stacy was telling her about me. I assumed she was asking about my ethnicity as that is often a topic of discussion. (Most don't believe me when I tell them that I am American - they think all Americans look like Taylor Swift! Ha!) As we walked out the door, Stacy burst into laughter. I was a little confused. She told me the woman had asked her the most unusual question. It seems that poor Stacy is always being asked strange things because of me. Anyway, the woman asked her, "Where too can I get a foreign servant?" Stacy told the woman that we were both teachers at a private school. The woman didn't believe her, hence the awkward glare, but contented herself with asking Stacy if she knew of any foreign servants. Stacy responded negatively. In discussing it as we walked home, neither of us were really sure why the woman would ask that question of a total stranger. Stacy thought it seemed rather offensive, even by the cultural standards. Most servants or lower class citizens are from India or Georgia while Koreans, Chinese, and Japanese are typically here for business. Guess it goes to show you that you never really know how others perceive you! Stacy and I laughed the whole way home that at least she was kind to her servant - taking me out to dinner and even carrying the packages for me.

We stopped at a Turkish bakery and got an assortment of cookies. Then picked up some salt and coffee on the way home.

January 28th:
We got our electricity fixed! The electrician came at 11pm last night and taped two wires together... hope it lasts! Thankful to be "warm" again :)

At 9:40 I left the house and took my first taxi ride by myself. I practiced directions with Stacy last night and felt confident enough to give the directions to Andy and Lisa's house (it is straight down the main road, then right on their street - not very difficult). Made it there safe. From 10 to noon, I watched Zander and Zephie so Andy and Lisa could go to the market and do some "kid-less" shopping. Afterwards, I walked home and stopped at Holland to pick up a few things (forgot peanut butter, though). Stacy and I went out to lunch with two other Americans who are teaching Political Science and Sociology at Dohuk University. Stacy didn't have to translate the entire time as it usually happens when we visit her friends or go out places. (I still had to rely on her to place my order!) It was nice to have a completely English conversation and to talk about the differences between here and home. Ryan and Paige have traveled quite a few places in Kurdistan and recommended some of the sites. I am looking forward to doing some "touristy" things before I leave.

When we got home, Stacy headed off for Kurdish class and I met Julie at Holland (got the peanut butter this time) and then we went to another market for oatmeal (so glad to have "tastes of home"). We also went to Mazi since we heard they were having a sale in their clothing department (didn't find anything) and picked up a few groceries. It was nice to have some one-on-one time and get to know each other better. I took a taxi home from her house (without any communication problems) and set to work on cooking up the chicken bones into a soup for a future meal. I also stewed up some tomatoes for spaghetti sauce and froze it.

Feel exhausted after all the activities of today.  Need to take more time to rest and I am also feeling the need to get some exercise - I am really stiff from all the cold and probably the sickness from last week too. So thankful to have heat back in our apartment!

January 9th and 10th (Days 3-4): Classes and Students

Here's my roommate Stacy, standing in the front door of our apartment. We walk through the "gate", up a flight of stairs and our door is on the left.

On Monday, January 9th, I went with Stacy to her two art classes - one at 8:30 and the other at 1:45. We came home in between (home is about a 15 minute walk away). Below is the view on my way to school! It is really beautiful and it hasn't been as cold as I anticipated. There is no frost, but there can be a cold wind in the morning. In the afternoon it warms up as the sun comes out. If you look on the left, you will see a long white wall, halfway up the picture. At the top of this wall, on the right, is the school.

The 8:30am class is a 4th grade class.

They are very good students (it might be because I have them first thing in the morning...)

The 1:45pm class is also a 4th grade class. However, they are much more challenging! Again, this might be because it is the last class of the day and they are ready to go home.

After the 8:30 class, Stacy and I walked to Mazi (the local supermarket). It is quite a walk (probably 30 - 45 minutes from the school.) When we got there, we discovered that it was closed all day. There was no rhyme or reason - that is just how things are in Iraq! :) Surprisingly, these things have not bothered me. Instead, I have focused on enjoying the profitable conversations that Stacy and I have shared during the long walks and the things I get to observe the more I am out and about. After we got home and ate lunch, I took a nap before the 1:45pm class (a wise decision!)

The first couple days it was difficult to sleep through the night and I would wake up from 2am to 5am and then get up at 6am. Sometimes, I just got up at 5am and had more time for prayer/devotions. By the afternoon I was ready for a nap.

After the 1:45 class, Stacy's friend came over to practice her English.

(As I am writing this, the electricity just shut off - a regular occurrence - it only shuts off for a few hours though and we have a back-up generator that should turn on a few minutes. Just thought I should mention this aspect of daily life).  We were invited to the friend's house, where we were shown around and introduced to her family and then offered NesCafe. Hospitality is very important here. I am learning to follow the rhythm of the culture which is slower and less abrupt than the task-oriented rhythm of the American lifestyle. (The generator is on now, but this means there will be no heat for awhile).

Stacy and I walked to Andy and Lisa's house, which is about 20-25 minutes away. We ate dinner together, then enjoyed a time of fellowship and worship as we read "Abiding in Christ" by Murray. After praying together, it was time for our Skype call with Lisa and Dave (the Director of Team Development and the Executive Director at Servant Group International) back in Nashville. We met a prospective couple during the meeting, which was ironic since just under 4 months ago, I was the prospective teacher meeting everyone in Iraq through Skype! The meeting started at 9, so by the time we finished and walked home, it was after 11pm. I was exhausted and finally got a good night's sleep!

Tuesday morning at 9:15 we went to another class. This class is also fairly quiet and attentive. After class, Stacy and I went to the market for cake mix and I bought some things to clean the bathroom. We came home and rested, then I headed off to the 1:45 class to teach by myself! It was especially challenging as the rowdy boys in the bunch wanted to test my limits. They began the class by yelling at the top of their lungs. (One little girl gave me a rose at the beginning of class) :) After the boys quieted down, we had some productive time, then things started to fall apart again. I could tell that several of the girls felt sorry for me and were upset at how the boys were behaving. I was praying the entire time, asking the Lord to guide me in His power. We rallied for the last 15 minutes of class as I focused on the attentive students and ignored the others. When it was time for dismissal, I stood at the door and allowed all the 5 star students to leave first, thanking them for being good students. When they left I spoke firmly with the remaining students, telling them that they had not behaved honorably to their teacher on her first day. Several were genuinely affected. As each one left, I made him tell me how he would improve for the next session. As I was walking home, I passed some of the rowdy students waiting for the bus. They made sure to tell me they were very sorry and would behave better next time. :)

Stacy listened sympathetically when I arrived home and we decided to try Mazi again as a mind-reliever. It was definitely a break from teaching, but was overwhelming in its own way. It is really like a supermarket back home (though not as crowded). I would describe my reaction as a sort of culture shock. You can buy almost anything and everything, but it may not be the best quality and a little more expensive. For example, I bought a "dollar tree" plastic basket for $3 and a modern sponge-mop for $8 that probably won't last too many more washings. It is nice to see familiar things, but overwhelming as you try to fit them into the current context. I know that I can live without a lot of things, so as I settle into the apartment I am trying to find the balance between making it seem like a home vs. "Americanizing" it.

Because we had several bags, we took the "bus" home. It is really a 9-passenger compact van (not a Ford) that stops when it wants to and costs 500 dinar to take you as far as you want to go and/or wherever it stops. The exchange rate is about 1200 dinar/$1. Stacy seems to understand where it is best to get off... perhaps I will learn the system one day as well.

While Stacy made a cake for her friend's birthday, which we celebrated at our apartment, I cleaned the bathroom. It is reassuring to do something familiar and I actually enjoyed doing a job I often dreaded at home. We had cake and cream puffs for Stacy's friend (who is also the neighbor we visited on my first night here.) She turned 17, but because she felt "old" (apparently girls are supposed to be married by 25), we teased that it was only her 15th. Her younger sister came over too and they taught me some words in Kurdish. The younger sister is a good teacher, but gets adamant when I don't have the correct pronunciation. :)