October 5th and 6th: Sightseeing In Erbil

Friday, October 5th:

This morning we walked to Costa Rica Coffee Shop. It was about a two-mile walk, but we were able to go through a huge park with trees, green grass and lots of foliage. The coffee shop, much to our relief, was the real deal (or "legit" as Lisa would say). 

Enjoying lattes and chocolate muffins.

Andy and John took the kids back to the house for their morning naps. The ladies got to hang out together, journaling, reading, and talking. We grabbed lunch from the nearby Papa John's and Burger Queen (Burger King and Dairy Queen combined) and took it home to the guys.

Close to 1:30 pm, the girls were off again! K took us to Langa, a GIANT secondhand market! We shopped until we dropped ... well, dropped off our bags at home and headed off to the Citadel.

Deep in the labyrinth of the market.

The Citadel is said to be "the oldest continuously inhabited town in the world." It is layers upon layers of cities. We couldn't go below, but saw some of the old ruins on the top level. They are "renovating" the structure, which means (unfortunately) that much of the historical architecture is being replaced.

The Citadel

Carvings on a post

View from the Citadel

The Citadel was an amazing place to visit. It would be neat to know what it was like to live there. K said she met an older man during one of their visits who said he had grown up there as a child. The street was divided - men would walk down one side and women on the other. That little glimpse sparked my curiosity and I couldn't help but wonder what each civilization was like, how each layer would represent the culture's priorities and "personality."

As we left the Citadel, we passed the main bazaar (which is a city in itself). K ordered a juice and we all ended up getting a fresh-squeezed fig juice for free! I love free! And the juice was excellent too! From there we took a taxi to Abu Shahab where we met John and Mary for dinner. I had an Iraqi "salad plate" and Sarah ordered pizza. We stopped at a nearby grocery store for ice cream, then walked home. Happy to just hang out. Unfortunately, the "Butter Pecan" ice cream that John picked out was actually butter-flavored ice cream with walnuts. Guess it is best to take things literally here! As we sat around on the couches, Sarah braided my hair. Sarah likes to try new styles ... and I love to have someone play with my hair! It was so relaxing and looked amazing...

 We ended up playing the "name game." It was our first time playing with Sarah ... I'm glad she didn't decide to leave our team after seeing how wild and crazy we can be!

Saturday, October 6th:

At 7:30 am, K came to the house so she, Sarah and I could walk to a mosque that we had driven by the other day. It was over 2 miles, but good exercise for the morning. We passed this fountain on the way there... I want a miniature one in my room!

Here is the mosque in the distance. Erbil is a very dusty city!

And finally, up close!

The building was enormous.

Intricate tile work that covered the mosque:

The garden next the mosque was beautiful.

We took a different route home, which kept the 2.5 mile walk interesting. Sarah and I regrouped with the team. Mary and John decided to hang out at home. Andy went to look at vehicles with a friend. (Andy and Lisa are thinking about buying a car!) The rest of us (Lisa, the kids, K, her daughter, Sarah and I) went to Family Mall. We loaded up in one taxi. Tight squeeze! Sarah and I split off to look for some things and get a bite to eat. We rendezvoused around 1, so we could get back to the house for a 1:30 pm departure. We were a little later than planned, but ended up waiting for the driver to arrive anyway. Loaded up everything and everyone in an H1 and made it back to Duhok around 5 pm.

I unpacked, took a shower, did a load of laundry, uploaded pics, and even squeezed in a little school work! :) Sarah and I watched a movie with popcorn, then off to bed...

September 21st and 22nd: Hiking Up the Mountains and Walking Through the Valleys

Friday, September 21st:

Thanks to Sarah, I have pics from last night...

At Zeri Park with the teachers

In the flight simulator

At Dumballah

Bershes! (Helen and Helen, Sarah and Sarah)

This morning I woke up feeling refreshed (even though I went to bed at 2am). This was an answer to prayer as I had asked the Lord for help to go to fellowship with the right attitude. John, Mary, and I went to fellowship at 9am (Sarah stayed home to rest and recuperate). We had a good time studying Psalm 81, which went along with the lecture I listened to yesterday - expect great things from God. We looked at Israel, a stubborn, rebellious people, who were intent on following their own hearts. God spoke to them time and again, even promising them, "Open your mouths wide and I will fill it." We were encouraged to NOT follow Israel's example, but to listen to God's Word and believe His promises.

On the way home, I picked up a chicken for our weekend meal(s). Sarah and I have made it part of our weekly tradition. The "chicken man" was much more courteous, telling me the bread would be about 5 minutes more and allowing me to sit inside and wait. Before, he acted annoyed (probably because I am single and Asian-looking) even though I waited outside and tried to be respectful. This culture is difficult to navigate, especially since I break all of their molds, but I trust that God will open their eyes to see that my heart is upright, and I am not trying to offend.

After lunch, I listened to a sermon on 1 Peter from Monergism.com. There were several good points that I will try to meditate on throughout the week, but one that struck me right away was that the gospel is neither cultural accommodation nor cultural withdrawal. I err on the side of cultural accommodation. I want to adapt and fit in, fearing that I will disappoint others around me. The sermon reminded me that our lives, if we are living them to glorify God, will generate praise and criticism. "Whereas they speak against you as evildoers, they may by your good works, which they shall behold, glorify God in the day of visitation." We are to live deep in the heart of our culture, set apart. Later in the evening I was put to the test. Someone local, via Facebook, asked me on a date. My first thought was, "How should I respond culturally?" After going through various responses with Sarah, I realized that I needed to respond in a way that would glorify God. I told __ that in the States he would have to meet my parents first. (Note to fathers: Tell your daughters that they can and should always use you for backup. My dad told me that back in middle school, and it was his words that came to mind.) The reaction was positive, even though I was afraid of disappointing him. I trust God will help me respond to future situations in a way that identifies me with the gospel.

At 5pm, John, Mary, Sarah and I walked to Geli (the park near Duhok Dam) and met up with Andy, Lisa, Zander and Zephie. Together, we climbed the flag mountain, where we saw the remains of a Zoroastrian temple and took team pics.

Zoroastrian Temple

View of Duhok from Flag Mountain

Looking towards the dam

The scenery was beautiful and we decided to take a team picture. I set the timer on my camera and we took our places. The following pics give a good look into the dynamics of our team :)

Get Ready!

Sarah and John are fixing their glasses, Andy is getting Zander-man into position.

Get Set!

Leave a space for Helen! (What is up with Sarah and John holding the same pose?)

Go!

One more just for fun!

A view of Duhok in the sunset:

Zander and I exploring a cave (Batman's cave). I stepped on a bottle as we rounded the dark corner. "Crackkkk" Zander and I both jumped! (Thanks, Sarah, for taking this pic!)

The Kurdish flag

We ate dinner at "Duhok Paradise" after our hike. Our salads included pickled cucumbers (that weren't orange), pickled red cabbage (SOUR!), and diced apples in fig? jam. Between everyone's orders, we Pizza Mexicana (really good and tasted like pizza back home), Pizza Marguerite, and chicken tikka (or chicken on a skewer). Enjoyed a great view and wonderful team fellowship.

Saturday, September 22nd:
In the morning I was able to chat via Facebook with Pastor John. It was encouraging to hear from home (and converse in "real" American, even to the point of using sarcasm!) Went over to Mary's for a waffle brunch. Just as we finished up our meal, Mary received an alarming message on Facebook. Almost immediately, we (or least I) went into the default mode of last year - move into a holding pattern until we hear from the administration. Thankfully they responded quickly and even though we were still unnerved by the message, it seems that the response was faster and more complete. We sat with each other, grading papers and watching Henry until about 3.

Sarah was able to Skype with her parents, and then she and I went down to the market to change money and look for a DVD player and TV. Along the way, we saw a small grass fire. Someone ahead of us had just walked by, but I couldn't just leave it. After all, I worked for a wildland firefighting company! What to do? Thankfully Sarah brought her water bottle and, after assessing the situation and determining that it was just burning paper and grass (no alcohol), she poured water over it while I kicked some sand over the small embers. Sarah and I might just have saved all of Duhok! We ended up going the long way through the market, picking up a few souvenirs and other fun purchases. In the end, we bought a DVD player and TV too! When we got home, we set up the TV/DVD right away. It worked! Three successes in one day - we found a DVD player, we found a TV, and we got it working! Unbelievable!

After some lesson planning, we went back to John and Mary's to hang out. Tomorrow, a rep from the school will pick us up, take us to school, then escort Mary back home after her class. Praying that all goes well and we are able to walk in the Spirit.

September 17th and 18th: A Little Bit of Progress and Lot of Heartbreak

Monday, September 17th:
Sarah and I have been lamenting the fact that we are missing all things FALL - Monday night football, spiced lattes, and leaves changing colors.

This morning was tough for my students. I warned them that anyone talking during the test would receive a zero. Apparently they didn't believe me. Three of the students were sent outside to "reflect" on their behavior. Instead of staying outside, they came back in and distracted the other students. I took their tests and tore them in half. Though the three acted undaunted, the other students in the class realized I was serious, and we had a fairly quiet class afterwards. When students finished their test, they had to write an apology note to Miss Sarah. "Miss, why do you keep saying, 'Miss Sarah, Miss Sarah?' We don't want to talk about it anymore." They actually noticed! I explained that it is very important that they treat guests respectfully and that we will continue to talk about "Miss Sarah" until they realize that their behavior was disrespectful.

My second class went well and I didn't have to give anyone zeroes. After they finished, they wrote thank you notes to Miss Mary. My other classes wrote notes as well. During morning devotions, I had prayed that my students would learn to love others and I realized how much they needed it when each class would ask, "But, Miss, what do we say?" Many of them copied down what I had intended to be a suggestion, "Thank them for being here while I was gone since you wouldn't have had anyone to teach you."

In sixth grade, I waited for the students to quiet down before handing out their tests. In the meantime, I wrote “minus points” on the whiteboard and wrote down a tally mark each time they started talking. In the end, both classes lost 3 points off their tests.

Stayed after school with Sarah and graded papers. For the walk home, we bought ice cream bars and enjoyed an after school treat. When we got home, Mary invited us over for tea. It was a nice time to catch up and relax together. I was able to get some grading done before we went back to their place for dinner. Mary made falafel, which we ate on flatbread with cucumber-yogurt dressing, tomatoes, and onions. Yummy! It was nice to eat an early dinner as I had lots of time afterwards to finish grading tests and homework. I had my first class tell me on the back of their test papers something about their class I should know. One student wrote, “Miss they hate you because last year you didn't teach the lesson you just put X’s next to names. But this year you are better.” Ouch! Hard words to swallow, making me doubt my discipline policy and wonder what I ought to do better. I wasn't able to see that I could do anything differently considering that no one hears the lesson when the students are misbehaving, but I did ask the Lord to help me learn and stay focused on teaching each lesson.

Tuesday, September 18th:
Mary is not feeling well, so Sarah subbed for her class. We enjoyed a nice walk to school and noticed that it was actually "chilly" (not Grants Pass chilly, but Iraqi chilly).

My first class went fairly well. It is a challenge to be consistent with discipline, especially when it doesn't seem to have much effect. Three of the boys continue to cause problems on a daily basis, but the boys who are “on the fringe” are doing a little better. In my first and second class, we made it through two chapters in the book, which was a feat in itself. I was thankful to catch up after missing a day when there wasn't any paper for my tests. The students seemed to understand the material, which made it a double blessing.

Sixth grade went well. They were not pleased when they realized that I actually subtracted points for talking. When they complained, “But it wasn't me, Miss,” I told them that I was serious about no talking during tests and that their entire class had to take responsibility since one person wouldn't be talking unless others were listening. Most of the students had turned in extra homework problems, so their grades were largely unaffected. I hope it served as a reminder that I mean what I say and will follow through. Before looking at our lesson, I told them I needed two minutes outside the text. In each class, I explained that math was not simply writing answers on the board for them to copy. I even went on to say that writing up answers was a terrible way to teach math. My goal was not to have them know the right answers, but to understand the ideas. Those ideas would affect the way they looked at the world around them for the rest of their lives. The students responded to my enthusiasm and agreed to be patient and "stick with it" even if my teaching method was different. "It may feel uncomfortable, but that's how you know you are growing." Those words have been ringing in my head since I got here. I actually took the idea from a workout article - "adapting to a set routine is what stalls progress." And I've been applying that concept to the way life works here. We strive to stay in our comfort zone, but God calls us out to teach us and grow us. I often react like my students - complaining, goofing off, or asking why without any trust.

During the long break, I took “Pedro” aside and talked to him. I felt like I gave the same spiel about consequences for bad behavior, but this time he seemed more attentive since we were talking one-on-one. It turns out he wants to earn a "Your student was TERRIFIC today" more than anything. I told him it was not very difficult. He simply needed to listen, do his work, and not distract the other students. I was encouraged by his reaction and tried to show through my words and actions that I care about him. "If you were the best student in my class, 'Pedro', I would be thrilled!" He looked at me questioningly, then beamed. "Really, Miss?"

Just after that, one of my fifth-grade students came up to me and told me that another student had made obscene gestures behind my back during class. I was shocked and didn't know how to respond. I knew I couldn't deal with the situation as it was too personal, and I was too stunned to even address it. I didn't doubt what the student said since I have noticed more perverse behavior and jokes in that class. Thankfully, Mr. B (the curriculum coordinator) walked by at that moment, and I asked him for his help. The student explained the situation. Mr. B was appalled, and went to talk to the student. I learned later that the accused-student denied doing it and even started crying. (It doesn't sound like either student denied that it had happened.) When the other student got side-tracked with how the class had been mistreating him, Mr. B didn't press it any further. He told the class that if anything like that was reported again, the student responsible would leave the school and not come back. Without anyone else knowing, he put the accused-student in charge of reporting any offenses to him...

It was a disheartening way to end the day. I was really heartbroken that my students would know something so obscene, let alone do something so obscene in front of everyone. Sarah also had a difficult last class. We talked on the way home about the frustration and discouragement of trying to be different from the local teachers, then being treated differently in a negative way. We want to discipline in love and teach in truth, but then we are treated with contempt and disrespect in ways that the local teachers would never be treated. We encouraged one another that Jesus also faced contempt and ridicule for coming in a lowlier state than the Jews had expected and for teaching hard lessons.

After scoring Multiple Intelligences tests for a little while, Sarah and I walked to Pizza Hot and ordered pizzas and french fries for dinner with John and Mary. Mary was still not feeling well, but better than before. We didn't stay long, since we wanted to pick up some food for tomorrow night's team dinner. Got home around 6:30, took showers, then finished paperwork while watching Swiss Family Robinson. Brought back good memories of acting it out with Hannah when we were kids.

Internet failure, so I spent part of the night uninstalling everything to try it again in the morning.

August 27th: Germany and More News

The Journey:

I realized after my last post that I didn't give any info about my time in Germany or the flight here! I left Monday afternoon, August 20th. Mom, Dad and the boys came to Medford to see me off. We checked my bags, then went to lunch for one last Mexican meal. When we came back, we found out that my flight was delayed by a half hour, so we had more time than expected. It was a teary departure with Eithen telling me, "You a go to 'Roc' and come back tomorrow. Then I a be a happy." I had a hard time dealing with the fact that I was going to be gone twice as long this time...

I went through security without any problems and fell asleep on the plane, feeling emotionally exhausted. We arrived in Denver too late for me to make my flight to Germany. The difference between this trip and the last one became apparent when I didn't even feel nervous about missing my flight. Once again, it was a good reminder to depend on the Lord and to realize that if this is His endeavor, then He will get me where I need to be. After bouncing back and forth between terminals to talk to customer service, I rescheduled for the flight leaving the next day. United gave me a free night's stay in a hotel with three food vouchers. I took a shuttle to the hotel, which ended up being thirty minutes away. It was a beautiful hotel though and I was able to rest and relax.

Left on time the next morning and had lunch at the airport. Left for Frankfurt at 1:30pm and arrived the next day at 10am. I took the train to Stuttgart (which was a new experience and served to remind me that I can navigate my way through a foreign country. It helped to relieve some of my trepidation about going back to Duhok.) My German sisters, Katze and Carola, met me at the train station. It was such a relief to see them!

We ate a late lunch together, then Carola and I went for a walk in downtown Nurtingen while Katze worked on a school assignment. Carola and I were able to catch up on life (it's been 8 years since we've seen each other!) The next day we went to Heidelberg, walked around downtown, had Eiskaffees (coffee with vanilla ice cream - my favorite German past time and super YUMMY!) then took the train up to the castle.

Eiskaffee!

View of Heidelberg from the castle:

The castle:

My time in Germany was definitely a blessing. I was able to sight-see and take a breath before transitioning back to life in Duhok. I could get around fairly well, especially as my German-speaking skills came back more each day. After Heidelberg, Katze's parents made schnitzel for dinner. More yumminess! The next day we went to Tubingen where Carola and Katze are both attending university. We stopped by Carola's apartment first, then went to Katze's while Carola went to her physical therapy appointment. We met up again and had pfankuchen for lunch in downtown Tubingen. There were a lot of neat shops that we walked by. A stream runs in front of the houses, so each one has a little bridge going across to their door. After lunch, we went to a factory store and tried on dirndls:

For dinner, Katze's parents hosted a BBQ for the family. We shared pictures and enjoyed being with each other. Carola and Katze helped me print my boarding passes and discussed whether it would be better to drive part way to Frankfurt, then get on the train, or take the train the whole way. We finally decided on the latter. The next morning, Katze and her family drove me to Stuttgart where I got on the train to go to Frankfurt. (On the way to Stuttgart we heard over the radio that there was a large accident on the autobahn going to Frankfurt and all the lanes were closed. God had definitely gone before us when we decided I should take the train!) Made it through the check-in process and security without too many difficulties. I found the right gate, keeping an eye out for the Bishop's and for Sarah. As I turned to leave and take a look around the airport, there they were, walking towards me! It was a happy reunion! Got one last Eiskaffee before we boarded. We found out that the Nelson's weren't going to be able to make it, so that was a disappointment. In Erbil, we got on our big bus with all our luggage and the rest ... is history (or at least in the last blog post)!

Monday, August 27th:

Moving ahead to today... Bishop's, Nelsons, Sarah and I went to the school in the late morning. We were greeted warmly by the teachers and got to catch up with all of them while we waited. It was one more thing to help me feel settled back into the life here. We met with the curriculum director who gave us our curriculum and yearly plans. It is good to be back to work!

When we got back to the apartment around 2pm, the city electricity was out (haven't had that happen in the last three months!) Sarah and I visited with John and Mary since our generator power wasn't working either. Around 4pm we took a taxi to Mazi and introduced Sarah to our local supermarket! After unloading our groceries at home, we got in another taxi and met the Bishop's at Shindokah Restaurant. We got our first team picture:

And introduced Sarah to after-dinner-tea:

Thankful to be here with a loving team, a great job, and a Father who is faithful and caring!

February 24th and 25th (Days 47-48): R&R then S&S

February 24th: (Rest and Relaxation)
Did not feel very good when I went to bed last night and woke up this morning feeling a little worse. Decided to stay at home and rest. Listened to Pastor John's sermon on The Pattern of Perfection. It was a good reminder to walk by the rule set forth in God's Word and to walk patiently with others, knowing that we are all "minding the same things." It is easy to wonder why no one else is excited by the things God is teaching me, but I need to remember that He is bringing us along at different paces and to stay focused on WHERE He is leading each one of us, not how fast. Read Edwards, studied out some things I've been learning and enjoyed a day at home. I really needed the rest after the struggles of the week. I told Jessica (who Skyped with me later in the evening) that I feel like a soldier who has been on the front lines and receives two days off at camp. A good soldier, knowing that he will be back on the front lines without guarantee of another rest, will take care of his body and mind. So while I can waste my time in frivolous entertainment or stay busy with household projects (cleaning my tent and making my cot, to keep up the analogy), it was good to rest and engage my thoughts profitably.

February 25th: (Shopping and Surfing)
Woke up feeling much better - an answer to many prayers! Went with Lisa, Julie and J (from International Fellowship) to Zakho (north of Duhok near Turkey) and shopped at the "City Centre" supermarket or as their bag advertises, "hypercenter." It is similar to Walmart or Fred Meyer (perhaps not quite as big). I was able to get a set of bakeware including a bread pan (I've been borrowing Mary's), a cake pan, a muffin tin and a cookie sheet! I was specifically looking for three out of the four, so was happy to buy the set at a good price. I also found washcloths, brown sugar, Tupperware, resealable baggies, and All-Bran - none of which you can find in the stores nearby.

While I was shopping, two young men looked in my direction said something in Kurdish. I ignored them since I didn't understand what they were saying and assumed they were talking to the clerk behind me. They repeated themselves and I realized that they were talking to me. I held up my hand and said, "only English." They gestured that they wanted to take a picture with me - a request that is extremely inappropriate in this culture (and rude in ours). I was shocked! Seems I can't go anywhere without eliciting strange behavior or questions about where I'm from.

Overall, City Centre had a large variety to choose from, along with some better quality items that weren't as expensive as the local versions. We hit the second floor first (household and appliances), made our purchases, then went to lunch next door at ... Chester's Chicken! It tasted like home, real BBQ sauce and everything. Went back to City Centre for our food purchases on the main level and left around 4pm.

Got home and unpacked all the goodies. Surfed the internet for things to post on Pinterest (it's like a bulletin board for the internet. I post pictures of recipes that I want to try, DIY design ideas, and places to travel.) It was a nice mind-reliever and a way to leave my four concrete walls without having people stare at me (or ask me to take pictures with them). Made potato pancakes for dinner.

February 5th through 7th (Days 29-31): One Month, Magnums and a Hair Trim

February 5th:

Beautiful weather again! Today was a holiday, so we didn't have any school. I was especially thankful since I am a little sore after yesterday's carpet cleaning. Loafed around the house until 10, then Stacy and I ran some errands and went to the market. I bought some large pots for cooking. (We have a small sauce pan, one small pot, and a frying pan, so it is difficult to cook anything on a large scale.) I'm looking forward to trying refried beans soon! :)

For lunch I heated up some food that the neighbors brought over. Around 1, Andy came by with the rug (thankfully it didn't rain last night or today, so it was completely dry). He also brought a new modem that he picked up for me last night. Hooray for internet again! John came over at the same time and replaced our entry light (he had just gone out and bought a new bulb for it). Then Mary and their little baby boy joined us, and Stacy and I had a fun little gathering in our apartment for 20 minutes or so. Can't get over how helpful everyone has been - I am really blessed to have such a considerate team.

Later, I went out to Holland and bought some jeans (they are actually Wranglers!) Then took a taxi to Mazi. I picked up the staples that I like to get from Mazi to last me the week (juice and yogurt) along with kitchen tools (a spatula and measuring cups) and "specialty" items (tortillas and whole wheat penne). My "big" adventure for the day was the taxi ride home. Unfortunately the driver didn't know the location that we usually use as the landmark to get us home, so I had to give him step-by-step directions. I really don't know any useful words outside of "straight ahead," "left" and "right," so the driver had to put up with me as I repeated the same phrases over and over without really being able to give him any general information about the final destination. Thankfully, we worked it out and I ended up at home.

The little neighbor girl was out in the alley and helped me carry my bags upstairs. She came in and then wandered around, looking at things. I decided to make the most of it and asked her the Kurdish names of things. I tried to write down the phonetic spelling of the words so I'd remember them, but I think that interacting with her was more important. Since she didn't speak any English, we couldn't really communicate outside of pointing at things and saying their English and Kurdish names.

Ate more of the neighbor's rice with some bread from Mazi. Then I cooked up a kilo of potatoes (in our new pot!) and made mashed potatoes - some for freezing, some for breakfast burritos, and some for fried potato pancakes. Mom and Dad talked to me on Skype (the brothers were at Grandpa and Grandma's house) and we had a good 1.5 hour conversation.

February 6^th:

I have been here exactly one month. Thankful for all the things I have learned in the last 30 days. I still feel like I have a long way to go. I am prone to compare myself with fellow team members and think that I should have accomplished more by now, but I must continue to trust that God will direct me where I need to go and lead me through the lessons I need to learn. In many ways the time has flown by.

Had my 8:30am class this morning. They were good and attentive. Walked home afterwards and passed John and Mary on their way to class. It was fun to see familiar faces! Stacy and I ran some errands, then came home for lunch. The neighbors brought even more food last night. (Since it was a holiday, they had a party to celebrate and shared their food with us - it will take Stacy and I several days to finish ALL the food they brought). After eating some of the food for lunch and getting geared up with an ice coffee, I headed back out for the 1:45pm (rowdy 4B) class. I was greeted with pounding desks – not fists on the desks, but students picking up their desks and pounding them on the tile floors. Several of the boys were also in the mood to fight, so it took a little while to get them all settled down (not to mention I had to physically put myself in between them to get them to stop).

All the classes (including 4B) are settling into our new system – first we review concepts learned, then practice new concepts in our art books (today they had to “draw three emotions”), lastly they get to work on a graded project that incorporates all the lessons so far. For the projects this week and next, I am having each class work on a collaborative poster. The students are paired up and working on a section of 1 Cor. 13. For example, a team might have to draw “Love is patient” or “Love is not arrogant.” Next week, I will tape all the pieces together so the class will have one large poster. The best poster will go someplace prominent in the school so other students can see it.

Before allowing the class to leave, I told them they had to sit down and “be perfect.” (Usually I release the students in the order of who had the best behavior in class.) It took 7 minutes before everyone was perfectly still (even then there were a few minor exceptions – the students were getting tired of waiting for the one lone student who would not obey, so finally one of the students forced him into his seat and sat on him – I decided to fight the “no physical contact” battle another day, glanced around for the split second that everyone was sitting, and then dismissed them with a relieved sigh.)

After class I did some laundry, read my emails, and went over to visit with John and Mary around 4:30pm. We enjoyed a cup of tea, talked about how the Lord had brought us here, and then walked to Sarky’s Pizza for our team meeting. It was fun to have the whole group together… at last. Our end of the table split a cheese pizza and a veggie pizza – really yummy! Unfortunately the restaurant was out of finger chips (French fries have a lot of names around here)! We took our time and chatted, then left when the babies started to get fussy. On the way home, we stopped by Holland and picked up ice cream bars (Magnums). Stacy and I went over to John and Mary’s to enjoy our ice creams and talk about games, movies, and dreams.

February 7^th:

Overcast this morning. They say it will snow in the mountains this week. Went to the 9:15am class and had a good lesson. The students were a little fidgety, but once they began working in their art books and on the brainstorming part of the project, they settled down. In each class I have a handful of students who show real artistic talent – it is fun to see what they will come up with as I challenge them with different types of projects. Though the other students may not be naturally gifted, most have shown improvement in the last month and I am beginning to see where their strengths lie. This is a real encouragement to keep pushing all of the students and challenging them to step outside their comfort zone.

After grading art books, I went home for lunch with Stacy (more of the neighbor’s food), then went back to school to prep for my afternoon class. I was going to try something new and take the students to the art room to work, but the administration ended up having a meeting and only announced it about an hour beforehand. I switched to plan B and got the posters ready to take to their classroom. I had a few minutes to observe Lisa teaching a 6^th grade art class – neat to see what the older kids can do – then headed up to 4B to see what another day would bring. More fighting and general rowdiness, but I tried to get them started on their posters right away and that helped settle everyone down. Only two of the groups turned out mediocre posters, the other nine groups really worked hard to incorporate detail, action and emotion and I was pleasantly surprised with their illustrations.

Walked home in the rain and got pretty wet, ate an after school snack, then left for Dan and Julie’s house. I was going to take a taxi, but there weren’t as many driving by (usually they are back-to-back every second), so I ended up walking the whole way. I was pretty wet by the time I got to their house. After a cup of tea to help me warm up, I trimmed Julie’s hair! I was a little nervous getting started, but some of the things I’d learned from my hairdresser and past experiences began coming back to me and I think it turned out alright.

Caught a taxi on the way home. The driver was impressed with my Kurdish – ha! He didn’t know the “usual landmark” either so I had to use my three Kurdish directions. Thankful to arrive home warm and dry. Fixed a “burrito” for dinner – I fried up some potatoes, mixed in some chicken (from the neighbors) and cheese, then folded it all up in a tortilla with salsa (which I found at Holland the day they had Soy Sauce). Perhaps not authentic Mexican, but it tasted good!

Updated my blog in the dark with no electricity. It sounds like a storm is brewing outside. 

February 3rd and 4th (Days 27-28): Count Your Blessings

February 3rd:

Andy and Lisa picked me up with J (a friend from the International Fellowship) who has a car and was gracious enough to take us to a huge, outdoor, second hand market on the side of a mountain. When we arrived around 8:45am, it was already crowded. As we walked up the "muddy track" (J is from Great Britain, so I am borrowing his phrase), a man pulled two sheep from the bed of a truck right in front of us. Women holding live turkeys, two in each hand sauntered by (I thought the turkeys looked more like vultures?) An area the size of a football field was covered with cheap plastic goods, used “garage sale” items, old cassette tapes, rubber boots, and other imported goods that no one here really has a use for. There was a “dump truck” load of clothes in the middle that had layers of dirt, as though it had sat there for some time. Many of the vendors had just started setting out their items. It was a beautiful day to be outside, the first sunny one in several days, although the ground was still muddy. We walked to the top of the flea market where all the rugs were stacked. After looking through several, trying to decide if we liked them before asking them to be unrolled, we finally settled on two from the same vendor. We made him an offer, sort of a buy one get one at a discount and finally got down to a reasonable price. J and Andy carried them down the hill and loaded them on the top of the car.

A Busy Place! Looking down the muddy "track."

Vendors setting out their wares 

J carrying my rug and buying "Wellingtons"

Carrying the rugs back to the car

We drove straight to J’s house where the Fellowship was being held for the week. He and his wife have four children and thankfully their house is large enough to hold our growing gathering. We had a good time at Fellowship, with a potluck afterwards. It was neat to see all the foods people make with the ingredients here.

J drove us to Andy and Lisa’s afterwards and helped unload the carpets. Because of the sunny day, Lisa and I thought we’d tackle cleaning the carpets. I borrowed some work clothes from Julie and I told her that even though the rugs weren’t perfect, they were a good deal and it was nice to have accomplished something. I also mentioned that we’d see how much we could accomplish with the cleaning (Insha'allah or “Lord willing” is a familiar phrase here as nothing we start is guaranteed to finish). No sooner had the words come from my lips, but Lisa came over and said that the city water wasn’t running so we wouldn’t be able to clean the carpets that afternoon. Ahhh, life in Duhok! You can either become frustrated by it day after day or learn to expect it and laugh when it happens. I’m enjoying the latter.

I walked home in the beautiful, warm sunshine and stopped by John and Mary’s apartment. They had just arrived from Erbil around noon. (Their apartment is right across from Stacy and me). We had a nice visit and I really enjoyed getting to know them. Dan and Julie came by a little later, and after they left, Andy, Lisa and the kids came by too. Stacy came over and I got to watch everyone interacting. It was fun to see the parts of our team coming together. On Monday we’ll be all together in the same place for the first time.

Felt like it was late when we got home, but it was only 7:30pm. I read for a bit (Jonathan Edwards on Heaven and Hell) then fell asleep.

February 4th:

Lisa and I planned to clean carpets around 9am, but she called to tell me that the city water wasn’t on yet. I finally had a short-term solution to get internet, so enjoyed spending a few hours catching up on correspondence. About 11, Lisa called again to say that the water had just come on. I hopped in a taxi and headed to her house. We worked for 3.5 hours cleaning the carpets. It is an interesting process and I enjoyed having the “Kurdish” experience.

Lisa and Andy cleaned the roof, which is flat and tiled with a drain in the corner, like all the roofs here. I started by vacuuming the rugs downstairs. Afterwards, we carried them up to the roof and began by soaking the rugs with water. It was a wet job, but Lisa and I wore long, loose-fitting pants and long sleeve shirts since we were still visible from all the other roofs – I couldn’t help being reminded of Bathsheba. Once the rugs were soaked, we sprinkled some laundry detergent on them, then began working in the detergent with hard-bristled brushes/brooms. It was hard work, but thankfully Andy did most of the difficult scrubbing (the Kurdish men do not typically help with housework nor are they very respectful of women in general, so we pray that these actions will stand as a testimony of how Christian men love their wives as Christ loves the church). After a lot of scrubbing, we rinsed out the rugs and squeegeed them. Next we rolled up the rugs, one rotation at time, while rinsing off the backs with water and squeegeeing any excess water. One of us rolled, while one rinsed and the other squeegeed. By our third rug we had the technique down to a science. Once they were all rolled, we stood them up in a corner to try to drain as much water from them as possible. After 20-30 minutes, we carried them to the upper level of the roof and hung them from the wall facing the sun.

Vacuuming

(take note, that's me - I know some of you were waiting to see a picture to verify that I am actually in the country!)

The one on the left is for S and my apartment

Just let me know if you need help rolling your carpet

(Zander loved playing in the water. He was great the entire time!)

After all the hard work, Andy went out and bought a rotisserie chicken for a late lunch/early dinner. The chicken comes with a plate of orange-colored pickles, lemon zest onions, and tomatoes. It was a great meal after all the labor. Lisa and I got to visit while Zander played around us and I held Zephie between feedings. It was nice to be “part of a family” and reminded me of being at home. On the way home, I stopped at Holland Bazar to pick up some spices. They had just restocked the store and I was amazed to find some Soy Sauce! Being familiar with the ancient proverb, “If you find it, buy it” (that’s actually just a popular expatriate phrase around here), I bought three bottles – one for me and two for a Korean friend at the Fellowship who had just been telling me that nearest place to get it is in Zakho and that she had just ran out. I walked home thanking the Lord for the little blessings like Soy Sauce, babies and internet.

When I got home, I had the great surprise of finding my family online! We were able to Skype with video. Eithen asked if he could come to "Ishy's house" (Sissy's house). I told him it was a long ways away and he would need to take an airplane. He replied, "No, cawr." He's learning to kiss the laptop camera and loves it when I send him kisses back. He's also learning to count (all the way to three), so I told him how to say those numbers in Kurdish too. Thankful for parents who build me up spiritually, team members who share their wisdom and experiences, and friends who continue to pray for me even though I can't send them updates!

January 29th through February 2nd (Days 22-26): Be Still and Know -or- A Lengthy Post

January 29th:

Went to class at 11am. There are always surprises. Today the girls were the ones misbehaving. It took 15 minutes just to get them settled down and working on the assignment. I was a little frustrated when I left, trying to figure out what I had overlooked or what I should do differently. As I sat down to grade their art books, I had another surprise. There is one student in the class who never draws anything, even when I tell him he may draw anything he likes. I wrote him a letter in his art book and asked him why he doesn't draw, but all he wrote was "I hate art."  I wrote back to him and asked him what he liked better. As I reviewed their art books, I wasn't sure he'd respond, but lo and behold, he actually completed the drawing assignment! Perhaps he felt more comfortable with the assignment as it was the most objective assignment so far. (Draw a picture of a clock and include lots of details.) Whatever the reason, I was thankful for one baby step forward.

After grading and talking to the other teachers in the break room for awhile, I headed out to the market. I wasn't sure if I'd be able to get what I needed since I had no "translator" :) but I thought I'd give it a try. The walk to the market is colorful. As I walk down the hill and around the corner to the market, there are fruit and vegetable stands on every side of the street. Shops with porcelain sinks and shiny mirrors, hot pink carpet, and lime green baskets. As you cross the street and enter the market, the variety of colors, sights and smells increases and the noise thickens. There is smoke hanging in the air combined with the smell of fried felafel, tea and popcorn. The market is darker and usually a little warmer. The fluorescent lights set off the bright colors and the coverings overhead create strange shadows; one might expect Phileas Fogg to appear along the winding walkway. Men crowd the market - some pushing by as though they are in a hurry to get somewhere, others walking, then pausing, walking, then pausing as they try to multi-task on their cell phones. Every so often a teenager comes weaving through the crowd carrying a silver tray with a stack of saucers and a few small glasses. Each glass is filled with tea and has a small spoon sticking out of the top. If you look closely, you'll see a heavy layer of sugar at the bottom of each glass. The servers are carrying the tea to shop owners who will serve it to their male friends or honored clients. It is not uncommon to hear the clinking of spoons as the men stir their sugar until it is dissolved.

At the first stop I picked up an extension cord and an outlet converter. I understood the price he was asking and had no problem finding what I needed. So far so good. Then I headed over to get some picture frames. The glass was broken in one of the frames I liked, so the shop keeper had me sit while he cut a new piece for it, right then and there! What service! Next stop was one of the miscellaneous kitchen stores for some Tupperware for all the "freezer" cooking I am doing :) There was a lot to look at in the shop, but eventually I left with a set of containers and some hooks for the wall. I wandered to the “man aisle” as Stacy calls it and browsed the bins looking for some parts for our wash machine. One shop seemed to have items similar to the ones I was looking for, so I paused a little longer and the shop owner came up and asked if he could help me. He spoke some English and after 15 minutes of pantomime and figuring out that the exact piece I was looking for didn’t exist, I left with two alternate parts.

When I arrived home, Andy was just leaving school and stopped by to replace our light bulb (he found the part we needed) and then hang a new mirror we bought. [Our water purifier is leaking, but it doesn’t look like Andy or I can fix it and we will have to take it back to the store.] As Andy worked on his projects, I started on the laundry project. I began unpacking my bags and discovered that I had left the bag with the extension cord somewhere in the market! How discouraging! I decided to tackle the wash machine and go back for the extension cord later. The parts worked, but as I was tightening one of them, it broke! Upon inspection, the inside was just cheap plastic. I was disappointed, but Andy had another suggestion and even had the part I would need at his house. It definitely felt like a typical day in Kurdistan – one step forward and two steps back.

After Andy left, I retraced my steps to the market and I found the bag with the extension cord at the first place I looked. I walked home with a grateful heart. I felt like the woman who had lost her gold coin and called her friends to rejoice with her!

Heated up some leftovers for dinner, and then enjoyed an extra-long Skype call with my family!

January 30^th:

The wind was biting cold this morning as I walked to my 8:30am class. It is nice to arrive before the students as I am able to prepare their work on the board (usually, the students have another teacher right before me and it is difficult to transition between subjects). The class completed their assignment early and we were able to have some discussion about popular games/movies here.

Stacy met me after class and we walked to the Dollar Center and the Dinar Center to pick up a few things (sponges, floor mats, etc.) I ate some food that the neighbors brought over for lunch, and then took a quick nap. Made some coffee to help me get going before I headed off to the rowdy class. There were quite a few disruptions, but they quieted down for the assignment. At the end, I held several of the students and released them one at a time as I explained my expectations and how each one should improve. I feel like a tape recorder at times, but pray that these encounters will sink deeper into their hearts each time as I try to build a relationship with them.

Andy brought the parts that I needed for the wash machine, so I replaced them when I got home, made some peanut butter “cookies” for our team meeting and caught up on correspondence.

We had a good team meeting. I enjoy being with the other members of our team and look forward to Monday evenings. [At this point I lost my internet - my “minutes” expired unexpectedly. It is still a work in process, but apparently there is a new modem on that market (and in the market) that I am trying to buy.]

January 31^st:

Very humbled over the past few days. I am beginning to see just how deeply-rooted my idols are, how habitual it is to cover my sin instead of confessing it.

The lecture on shame (which I have re-listened to several times) talks about compulsive behavior that diverts us from acknowledging our shame and confessing our sin. Within the last few days, I’ve noticed that my compulsion is to create mental lists and scrutinize over details of future events, trying to prepare myself for all occasions. I am alarmed at the rapidity with which I steep myself in these old habits, but because they are such an embedded part of my personality and nature, I also feel paralyzed to resist them. Through a series of events, God graciously showed me just how dangerous they are. When I went to the market two days ago, I was going through the usual checklist – what I should say, how I should respond, running through hypothetical situations to test myself. At the market, I found myself in a situation I had not anticipated [I excluded the details from my previous entry]. As is my habit, I reasoned through the situation and left feeling fairly confident in the way I had handled it, though confused as to why the situation occurred. Deep inside, shame began to unfurl. I got a glimpse of what the shame was pointing at, and realized I had not prayed through the situation. I had trusted my idol of self-reliance and had not depended on God. (The lecturer uses Jeremiah 2:13 to summarize this: “For my people have committed two evils; they have forsaken me the fountain of living waters, and hewed them out cisterns, broken cisterns, that can hold no water.) Instead of confessing my sin to God and turning to my Advocate, I turned to my roommate for confirmation that I had handled the situation to the best of my ability (I failed to recognize that this was just an attempt to cover my shame). I turned to myself and ran through the event again and again. Shame continued to unfurl as I continued to dig my own broken cisterns. In a final attempt to extinguish all feelings of shame, I turned to the team. Their response was not at all what I expected. My shame was only magnified. Sadly, I continued to make things worse. [It is difficult to write this as I become increasingly aware of the destructiveness of un-confessed sin]. I turned to my roommate again and vented in self-defense. I clarified my point. I looked at everything except the idol that had started it all. I was upset because the team “just didn’t understand” – a phrase to disguise contempt for others because they had not met my need and helped cover my shame. (The lecture shows how contempt will follow shame, either self-contempt or contempt of others as we try not to acknowledge the idols that have been exposed.) It wasn’t until later that night and early this morning that I realized what I had done. I had covered the idol that shame had exposed. I used others to try to cover my shame, and then shielded myself with contempt when these attempts failed. Bless the Lord for His goodness that He reveals this to us and does not leave us to ourselves.

It rained heavily today and I was soaked on my walk to school and back. My students are progressing, even though I had to bring two groups of students to the principal within the same period. I had a good discussion with “Pedro” after class. “Evie” was listening and asked me why I took the time with him when he was such a bad student. Having just that morning experienced God’s long-suffering, I explained (with “Pedro” listening) that God was patient with me and I needed to be patient with my students. I pray these little things will be embedded in their hearts to bear fruit later.

February 1^st:

Breakfast alternates between yogurt with homemade granola and oatmeal with dates and honey. I was not keen on breakfast back home, but find that it is now something I look forward to each day.

Heavy rain again and I was thankful when a student’s family pulled over and offered me a ride to school. Saw this as a kindness from God and thankful for His forgiveness as I continue to confess my idols. Since it is Wednesday, I had all day classes. I continue to see improvements in each group. Last night as I tried to fall sleep, I kept hearing “Miss! Miss!” echoing through my thoughts and decided that today I would have the students work on raising their hands quietly. It made quite a difference! I’ve also established a point system for their assignments that rewards them for listening to instructions and using detail and neatness. The classroom environment is completely different from an American classroom. I find I must pick my battles - often choosing the moral or character lesson over the “be like America” mantra. It is a continual struggle, but I have to keep in mind why God has brought me here.

When I got home in the afternoon, I had my “after school snack” and then laid down for a quick nap. The 8:30am to 2:30pm schedule is exhausting! Studied, cleaned and did some laundry before making spaghetti for dinner. Still no internet, but finding that my time is spent restfully.

February 2^nd:

Spent the morning at home and cleaned the laundry room. I continue to feel the destructiveness of sin weighing on my heart. Though I have a great peace regarding God’s forgiveness and acceptance, I am grieved at how quickly I seek my own covering and at all the ways I see others attempting to cover their shame. May God use this to guide me in bringing glory to His name! Around noon, Stacy and I went down to Western Union to pick up our wire transfer and celebrated by getting a Turkish wrap. It was really good, though more expensive than shwarma (the typical meat sandwich).

Went to my afternoon class and had a really good time with the students. Because most things in this culture are only a shame if you are caught, it is difficult to discipline. The students are always blaming someone else or their circumstances for their behavior. When I leave the classroom, the students are always clamoring to be the one “responsible” which means they get to tell me if the other students misbehaved. I have tried to change this by telling them that they must be responsible for themselves. (I know, “No fun!”)

I’ve noticed that it is not uncommon for the students (boys mostly) to draw pictures of killing or to say “I will kill you if…” to the other students. When I told one student today that God says “Do not kill,” he argued back, “But what if someone tries to steal your things?” I thought it was interesting that when excuses are acceptable on the smaller scale of misbehavior (which is often how children escape discipline in this culture), they also become acceptable when it comes to breaking God’s law. I responded that the thief would be responsible for his actions and that God would punish him. It ended the discussion, but I am praying for further opportunities to talk about accountability, righteousness and the need for an Advocate.

By the time I got home, I was overwhelmed with the emotions from the last three days – sense of sin, awe at God’s glory and holiness, discouraged by lack of internet without news from home, greater understanding of students’ struggles with shame, frustration over the restrictiveness of being a single woman in this society, and most of all missing Eithen. I sat at my computer, looking through pictures of the boys and let myself cry.

In the evening, we went out for dinner as a team to Vin House. I had the chicken fajita sandwich with French “frites” and coleslaw. Ended the day with a quiet evening at home.